How to Breed Discoid Roaches: Easy Steps and Problem Solving
Why would I feed Discoid Roaches to my pet?
Discoid roaches are not the most popular feeder insect. But, this is not because they are a bad feeder insect. In fact, discoid roaches are easy to raise, have plenty of meat within their thin exoskeleton, and breed readily in captivity.
While many people choose dubia roaches as a feeder, dubia roaches are illegal to transport into several states such as Florida, Hawaii, Louisiana, and other states where dubia roaches could get loose and become invasive. Discoid roaches, on the other hand, provide almost an identical nutrient profile and are just as easy to breed.
Want to start a discoid roach colony? Keep reading to learn how!
Sexing Discoid Roaches
Discoid roach reproduction starts the same way all animal reproduction starts. A male roach falls in love with a female roach and sparks fly….
Well, it’s not quite this romantic for roaches. But, you will need a male and female to get started. In fact, you can actually start with 3-5 females for every 1 male. So, your first task is to identify males and females and separate them into appropriate housing units.
To do this you can follow some very easy steps. First, find the largest roaches with wings. Roaches without wings are immature nymphs, and determining the sex of a nymph is not easy. Plus, nymphs will not be sexually mature for several months. After several molting events of shedding the exoskeleton, the adults will emerge with wings. You can see the difference between nymphs and adults in the image below. Adults are seen on the top, while the wingless nymphs are seen below.
Separate these adults into a separate container. To figure out which ones are males and females, the easiest method is to compare the adult roaches to each other.
In males, the wings fully cover the abdomen, as seen in the lower adult roach in the image above. Males tend to be slightly narrower than females. On the underside of their abdomen, males also have a pattern of white or lightly-colored stripes that run parallel to the segments of their abdomen.
By contrast, the wings of female discoid roaches do not cover their entire abdomen. Their shortened wings allow the male to mount and fertilize the female. Females are also slightly wider than males, as seen in the roach at the top of the image above. In addition to their width, you can distinguish a female by dark black or brown coloration on the underside of her abdomen.
As you sex the roaches, separate them into separate containers for males and females. This will make it easy to select the right number of males and females for each breeding colony you start.
Time to Make Baby Roaches!
The Container
To start a breeding colony, place 3-5 females and a single male into a fairly large container, preferably with a lid. Discoid roaches cannot climb on plastic or glass, nor can they fly effectively. However, they can climb cardboard and other surfaces quite well, so it’s best to keep a secured screen on top of the enclosure.
A clear plastic Rubbermaid container works great, but roaches are nocturnal and will quickly hide from the light. To help the roaches breed, keep clear boxes in a dark place, such as in a closet or under a bed. If you do not have a dark space, simply get a box with an opaque color so it will be dark inside.
Food, Substate, and Hiding Places
Roaches can eat almost any type of food, but breeding females will need plenty of protein. Many discoid roach breeders start with a basic diet of greens like lettuce or kale, carrots, sweet potato, and practically any other vegetables. Discoid roaches also enjoy fruit, but too much fruit will lead to a pesky fruit fly infestation and cause excess odor. If females are not producing babies, it may be that they need a boost of protein. Dog or cat food kibbles can be offered as an excellent source of protein.
Roaches can survive on almost any substrate. Some breeders suggest no substrate, as it is the easiest to clean. Others suggest a mix of sphagnum moss and coconut fiber, which absorbs water and keeps the humidity very high for this tropical species. Egg cartons, toilet paper tubes, and other cardboard waste makes great hiding places for discoid roaches.
Temperature and Humidity
Discoid roaches like it hot! Especially when they are breeding. Most experts suggest keeping the breeding container at around 90 degrees Fahrenheit! The roaches can handle temperatures as low as 75 degrees, but their growth and reproduction will be slowed. To maximize their growth and reproduction, temperatures between 90-100 degrees have been shown to work best.
At these temperatures, humidity also becomes a concern. High temperatures increase the rate of evaporation, so you will likely need to mist the discoid roach colony daily or every other day to ensure that the roaches have plenty of water to stay hydrated. Some breeders suggest gel-based water sources as a great way to give the roaches plenty of water without letting them drown in an open dish. A sponge or paper towel can also serve this function, though they may be more prone to molds, which can harm the roaches.
Get Ready for Roaches!
If you have properly addressed all of the above concerns, you should start to see nymph roaches in about a month. After a female is fertilized by the male, she will develop an egg sac called an ootheca. The female will store this special egg sac within her abdomen. Discoid roaches are ovoviviparous, meaning the eggs will develop inside of her and she will give birth to 20-40 live roaches.
The first nymphs will hatch out as frail, tiny, white versions of the adults. At this stage, they have no wings and can make great feeders for smaller reptiles and arachnids. They typically hatch at around ⅛ - ¼ inch long. After a couple months, they will double in size to nearly ½ inch nymphs. For bigger pets, you will only have to wait around 3-6 months for them to go through several molts and become ¾ - 1 inch adults, which are large enough to feed bearded dragons, certain arachnids, and other reptiles. For the biggest pets you can wait even longer, as discoid roaches can grow to nearly 3 inches long!
Still no babies? Try these steps...
If your breeding colony is not producing babies, there are several things you can check. First, take a look at the roaches in the colony. If you see damage on their antennae or wings, the roaches are likely crowded for space and are not getting enough food. Increase the amount of food you offer, and move the colony to a larger container.
If the roaches still aren’t producing babies, check the temperature, humidity, and make sure your substate does not have any harsh chemicals. Failed colonies often result from low humidity or temperature, because eggs and new nymphs are especially vulnerable to drying out. Lastly, make sure your discoid roaches are getting enough protein. Adding a high protein food, such as a little dog chow, will give female roaches plenty of protein to produce eggs.
If you follow all of these instructions, you will be well on your way to a sustainable, healthy, and practically free source of feeders for your reptiles or arachnids.
[post_title] => How to Breed Discoid Roaches - CritterFam
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What makes crickets so great and why does every reptile owner buy them?
Crickets are probably the most popular feeder insect for reptile owners. You can find them in nearly every pet store, and there area a number on insect farms that breed them for reptile (and human!) consumption. But why are they so popular? They are not the most nutritious. Many other feeders are more nutrient rich than crickets. And there are more user friendly options as well. Crickets notoriously stink, so it's best to keep them somewhere other than your home. And they can bite if you handle them. So the question still remains, why are crickets such a popular feeder option for reptiles?
Here are the reasons:
nutritional
crickets pack a protein punch, which all reptiles hunt for. Their muscular bodies are loaded with lean protein, which makes them perfect prey for many popular reptiles. Their nutrients are not perfect, however. They have a low amount of fat, and their calcium to phosphorus ratio isn't perfect. So they do need to be dusted. But most insectivorious reptiles need a feeder that is 30-60% of protein, and that is high in fat content (40-70%). Crickets fit this profile pretty well with a body composition of 66% protein and 22% body fat. The extra protein makes them excellent for young bearded dragons who are looking to grow quickly.
affordability
crickets are the most affordable feeder insect. We sell 1000 crickets, any size, for $25 and free shipping. Roaches are treasured by many reptile owners, but you can get nearly 10x the amount of crickets that you can get for roaches. 1000 small roaches will cost $75. Which is obvious to see why crickets are a better value. Superworms are better priced than roaches, but they too are more expensive than crickets. 1000 large superworms are $36 with free shipping. And even though superworms and roaches are slightly better nutritionally, you'll still need to gut load and dust both superworms and roaches. But don't be dissuaded, because all reptiles enjoy a varied and diverse diet.
abundance
Crickets are prolific breeders, which means there is always a cricket supplier ready to unload crickets of any size and quantity. Roaches usually take about 6 months to grow from their egg into an adult. And superworms can take 1 year! Crickets will only need about 2-4 weeks. So crickets, despite their nutritional downside, are generally readily available.
Crickets are not the only feeder option available - but they are the most popular. Roaches, superworms and black soldier fly larva are all popular as well and can be found on our storefront. But by a large margin, crickets are the most preferred feeder on the insect market.
[post_title] => Why are crickets a great feeder option?
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Which is the best pet snake for beginners?
We're nominating the corn snake, milk snake, and rosy boa as best beginner snakes! But we know there's a bunch more worthy contenders! Let us know which snakes you think are the best for beginners and why? We have a few thoughts on the popular question, and wrote a comprehensivebeginner pet snake guide on the subject. Out of the most popular pet snakes, milk snakes, corn snakes, and rosy boas are great options for beginner snake owners. But why? What is it about the 3 snakes that make them so easy and beginner friendly?We have a few ideas on what makes pet snakes easier than others.
Docile temperament - all 3 of these snakes are relatively docile. They do not mind handling, and can even grow affectionate with owners
Expense - all 3 of these snakes are relatively affordable, with the corn snake being more affordable, then milk, then rosy boa. All 3 will cost about the same to set up a proper habitat (rosy boas need more bedding however), and each one will have roughly the same monthly expense.
Cleanliness and sanitation - These snakes are relatively clean, but will need daily spot cleaning. Remember, cleanliness and sanitation is critical for good health. So be sure to spot clean daily. And keep an eye on the water dish for your rosy boa incase they decide to take a trip through it.
General maintenance - Milk snakes and corn snakes are practically identical with their humidity and temp requirements. Rosy boas are a little more finicky, and will need temps slightly higher. And their humidity requirements should settle around 40%. If they start to shed, you'll want to bump up that humidity to about 60%. You can use areptile fogger to help boost that humidity.
Friendliness - A new pet owner cannot go wrong with any of these snakes. Each one is friendly and will explore, and can be held gently. As long as the new owner is mindful and careful, any of these snakes are great for beginners.
Are you a frequent traveler? Not a problem, because corns, milks, and rosies can be left for up to a week without a feeding. It is recommended, however to have a sitter check in, to perform the daily spot cleaning. And also check on the water.
[post_title] => Which is the best snake for beginners? Let us know what you think!
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How many insects to feed a Leopard Gecko?
Leopard geckos are some of the most popular reptile pets in America. They are low maintenance, easy to care for, and if properly cared for, can live for 20 years. But providing them with the proper diet is critical to ensure they can maximize their health and happiness.
Unlike bearded dragons, leopard geckos only eat insects. So they do not need to be fed a diet of fruits and vegetables. But their insects need to offer the proper nutritional value:
high in protein (30-60%)
high in fat (40-70%)
low carbs and indigestible fiber
phosphorus to calcium ratio - 1 part phosphorus to 2 parts calcium
There are a variety of insects available, but each one offers a different nutritional profile. It's always best to offer a variety. But it's good to know which feeder offers what type of nutritional value.
The have an extremely short digestive track, which means they are not able to digest the fiber in fruits and vegetables. Therefore their source of nutrition comes from insects.
It is still important to gut load and dust your feeder insects. Leopard geckos are reptiles, and need to get calcium from supplements. So be sure to dust your bugs with calcium dust to avoid metabolic bone disease.
It is important to gut load your insects. However, do not gut load theme with additional protein. Too much protein can cause internal problems for the leopard gecko, causing grout and even death.
The best time of a day to feed your leopard gecko is the in the evening, when they naturally start hunting.
How many crickets for my Leopard Gecko?
Crickets are a popular food for leopard geckos. They have a pretty good amount of fat (24%) and protein (66%) for your leopard gecko. However, they have a poor phosphorus to calcium ratio (3.7 phosphorus : 1 calcium). This means if your leopard lived only off crickets, they could potentially suffer from a calcium deficiency. So we strongly recommend that you dust your crickets with calcium powder to bump up that calcium.
Young Leopard Geckos (0-4 months old) = 4-8 1/4" crickets once per day.
Juvenile Leopard Geckos (4-10 months old) = 6-10 medium crickets 5-6 days a week.
Maturing Leopard Geckos (10 months and older) = 6-10 large crickets 2 to 3 times a week.
The length of crickets and other insects to feed will be around 1/4" inch for hatchlings and babies, 3/8 inches for juveniles (4 months and over) and 1/2 to 1 inch to adult leopard geckos (10-12 months old).
How many superworms for my Leopard Gecko?
Superworms are a popular feeder insect for leopard geckos. They're loaded with protein (47%) and fat (42%). But their phosphorus to calcium is worst than crickets - 1 part calcium to 1 part phosphorus. Unfortunately, this means the superworms should never be used as a staple feeder for your pet. And when you do use the superworms, you should absolutely dust them with calcium powder to bump that ratio down.
Young Leopard Geckos (0-4 months old) = 6-10 <1” Superworms per day
Juvenile Leopard Geckos (4-10 months old) = 6-10 1”-1.5” Superworms every other day
Maturing Leopard Geckos (10+ months old) = 6-10 2” Superworms 2-3 times per week
How many dubia roaches for my Leopard Gecko?
Dubia roaches are quickly becoming some of the most desired feeder insects for many pet owners. And their nutritional value satisfies many of a leopard gecko's needs. Their fat (24%) and protein (46%) are very close to the desired range. And they have a much better phosphorus to calcium ratio than crickets and superworms (1 part calcium to 1 part phosphorus). Although this ratio is better, it still falls short to the 2 to 1 ratio, so it's important to dust them with calcium powder.
Young Leopard Geckos (0-4 months old) = 4-8 ¼ inch roaches every day.
Juvenile Leopard Geckos (4-10 months old) = 6-10 1-inch roaches 5-6 days a week.
Maturing Leopard Geckos (10 months and older) = 14-16 1.5-inch roaches every other day.
The length of roaches and other insects to feed will be around 1/4" inch for hatchlings and babies, 3/8 inches for juveniles (4 months and over) and 1/2 to 1 inch to adult leopard geckos (10-12 months old).
How many black soldier fly larva should I feed my Leopard Gecko?
Black soldier fly larvae and leopard geckos are an amazing pair. But they are a lesser known feeder option for many leopard gecko owners. But, from a nutritional point of view, black soldier fly larvae are superior compared to every other insect. Their protein (45%) and fat content (36%) is in the sweet spot for a leopard gecko. But most importantly, they have a perfect blend of calcium and phosphorus (2.6 calcium to 1 phosphorus). This means they don't need to be dusted, but most importantly, it means they can provide the necessary amount of calcium for your leopard gecko. But it's still important to gut load them. Black soldier fly larvae are amazing composting grubs, so they can eat practically anything. But if you're using them as a feeder, then you'll want to feed them nutritional fruits and vegetables.
Young Leopard Geckos (0-4 months old) = 4-10 ¼” BSFL per day
Juvenile Leopard Geckos (4-10 months old) = 5-10 ½” BSFL 5-6 days a week
Maturing Leopard Geckos (10+ months old) = 5-15 ¾” BSFL 2-3 times a week
[post_title] => How many insects should I feed my Leopard Gecko?
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[post_date] => 2022-06-02 21:35:49
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[post_content] => so i need some help my wild caught gray tree frog does not eat they just bury it or leave it alone they sleep alot i really worried can i get some advice
[post_title] => my gray tree frog wont eat
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[post_content] => So I just got my little guy I still can’t decide what his name should be but I’m thinking maybe topaz or jasper but I wanna be sure he has a good life and I wanna get him all he needs to grow and be happy I heard horror stories about big brand pet shops so I seen he was the only one and didn’t want him to sit alone and I loved his goofy smile when I first seen him please help me find everything good to maintain his habitat
[post_title] => New owner please help me be sure I setup a stable home
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[post_content] => Norbert is my new baby bearded dragon. I’ve had him about 2 weeks and I’m raising him over the summer so I can have him as a class pet next school year! He absolutely loves crickets!
My class is Hogwarts theme so I wanted a dragon as a class pet for my 5th graders!
[post_title] => Meet Norbert, the baby bearded dragon!
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[post_content] => Yes, bearded dragons can eat blackberries
However, blackberries are a little bit harder for bearded dragons to mash up in their mouth. But, it is safe for bearded dragons to feed blackberries. You can feed a few blackberries to your dragon every week. Blackberries are not much dangerous for beardies. In fact, bearded dragons love to eat fruit such as blackberries, apples, watermelon, and other fruits as well.
Source: https://www.thecritterdepot.com/blogs/news/what-fruits-can-i-feed-by-bearded-dragon
[post_title] => Can Bearded Dragons Eat Blackberries?
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How to Breed Discoid Roaches: Easy Steps and Problem Solving
Why would I feed Discoid Roaches to my pet?
Discoid roaches are not the most popular feeder insect. But, this is not because they are a bad feeder insect. In fact, discoid roaches are easy to raise, have plenty of meat within their thin exoskeleton, and breed readily in captivity.
While many people choose dubia roaches as a feeder, dubia roaches are illegal to transport into several states such as Florida, Hawaii, Louisiana, and other states where dubia roaches could get loose and become invasive. Discoid roaches, on the other hand, provide almost an identical nutrient profile and are just as easy to breed.
Want to start a discoid roach colony? Keep reading to learn how!
Sexing Discoid Roaches
Discoid roach reproduction starts the same way all animal reproduction starts. A male roach falls in love with a female roach and sparks fly….
Well, it’s not quite this romantic for roaches. But, you will need a male and female to get started. In fact, you can actually start with 3-5 females for every 1 male. So, your first task is to identify males and females and separate them into appropriate housing units.
To do this you can follow some very easy steps. First, find the largest roaches with wings. Roaches without wings are immature nymphs, and determining the sex of a nymph is not easy. Plus, nymphs will not be sexually mature for several months. After several molting events of shedding the exoskeleton, the adults will emerge with wings. You can see the difference between nymphs and adults in the image below. Adults are seen on the top, while the wingless nymphs are seen below.
Separate these adults into a separate container. To figure out which ones are males and females, the easiest method is to compare the adult roaches to each other.
In males, the wings fully cover the abdomen, as seen in the lower adult roach in the image above. Males tend to be slightly narrower than females. On the underside of their abdomen, males also have a pattern of white or lightly-colored stripes that run parallel to the segments of their abdomen.
By contrast, the wings of female discoid roaches do not cover their entire abdomen. Their shortened wings allow the male to mount and fertilize the female. Females are also slightly wider than males, as seen in the roach at the top of the image above. In addition to their width, you can distinguish a female by dark black or brown coloration on the underside of her abdomen.
As you sex the roaches, separate them into separate containers for males and females. This will make it easy to select the right number of males and females for each breeding colony you start.
Time to Make Baby Roaches!
The Container
To start a breeding colony, place 3-5 females and a single male into a fairly large container, preferably with a lid. Discoid roaches cannot climb on plastic or glass, nor can they fly effectively. However, they can climb cardboard and other surfaces quite well, so it’s best to keep a secured screen on top of the enclosure.
A clear plastic Rubbermaid container works great, but roaches are nocturnal and will quickly hide from the light. To help the roaches breed, keep clear boxes in a dark place, such as in a closet or under a bed. If you do not have a dark space, simply get a box with an opaque color so it will be dark inside.
Food, Substate, and Hiding Places
Roaches can eat almost any type of food, but breeding females will need plenty of protein. Many discoid roach breeders start with a basic diet of greens like lettuce or kale, carrots, sweet potato, and practically any other vegetables. Discoid roaches also enjoy fruit, but too much fruit will lead to a pesky fruit fly infestation and cause excess odor. If females are not producing babies, it may be that they need a boost of protein. Dog or cat food kibbles can be offered as an excellent source of protein.
Roaches can survive on almost any substrate. Some breeders suggest no substrate, as it is the easiest to clean. Others suggest a mix of sphagnum moss and coconut fiber, which absorbs water and keeps the humidity very high for this tropical species. Egg cartons, toilet paper tubes, and other cardboard waste makes great hiding places for discoid roaches.
Temperature and Humidity
Discoid roaches like it hot! Especially when they are breeding. Most experts suggest keeping the breeding container at around 90 degrees Fahrenheit! The roaches can handle temperatures as low as 75 degrees, but their growth and reproduction will be slowed. To maximize their growth and reproduction, temperatures between 90-100 degrees have been shown to work best.
At these temperatures, humidity also becomes a concern. High temperatures increase the rate of evaporation, so you will likely need to mist the discoid roach colony daily or every other day to ensure that the roaches have plenty of water to stay hydrated. Some breeders suggest gel-based water sources as a great way to give the roaches plenty of water without letting them drown in an open dish. A sponge or paper towel can also serve this function, though they may be more prone to molds, which can harm the roaches.
Get Ready for Roaches!
If you have properly addressed all of the above concerns, you should start to see nymph roaches in about a month. After a female is fertilized by the male, she will develop an egg sac called an ootheca. The female will store this special egg sac within her abdomen. Discoid roaches are ovoviviparous, meaning the eggs will develop inside of her and she will give birth to 20-40 live roaches.
The first nymphs will hatch out as frail, tiny, white versions of the adults. At this stage, they have no wings and can make great feeders for smaller reptiles and arachnids. They typically hatch at around ⅛ - ¼ inch long. After a couple months, they will double in size to nearly ½ inch nymphs. For bigger pets, you will only have to wait around 3-6 months for them to go through several molts and become ¾ - 1 inch adults, which are large enough to feed bearded dragons, certain arachnids, and other reptiles. For the biggest pets you can wait even longer, as discoid roaches can grow to nearly 3 inches long!
Still no babies? Try these steps...
If your breeding colony is not producing babies, there are several things you can check. First, take a look at the roaches in the colony. If you see damage on their antennae or wings, the roaches are likely crowded for space and are not getting enough food. Increase the amount of food you offer, and move the colony to a larger container.
If the roaches still aren’t producing babies, check the temperature, humidity, and make sure your substate does not have any harsh chemicals. Failed colonies often result from low humidity or temperature, because eggs and new nymphs are especially vulnerable to drying out. Lastly, make sure your discoid roaches are getting enough protein. Adding a high protein food, such as a little dog chow, will give female roaches plenty of protein to produce eggs.
If you follow all of these instructions, you will be well on your way to a sustainable, healthy, and practically free source of feeders for your reptiles or arachnids.
[post_title] => How to Breed Discoid Roaches - CritterFam
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